The end of the world is a sleight of hand, it refers to a process and position not only in time but also in space.
It's difficult to describe, but the best way I can put it is a quality of the air. I've driven along the edge of gorges furrowed into the frozen rock of Oregon, and stared up at the shaven face of Mt. St. Helens from within the temperate rainforest of Washington. I've seen ivy crawling up blunted hills and hollow industrial wreckage in New Jersey, and in Pennsylvania walked narrow cobble streets as old as anything in settled American can be called. In New Mexico, I've seen sunlight pierce the high grey cloudvault and fall in shafts to the scrubland below. Among all those places, fresh or polluted, dry or humid, the air possesses the simple quality of air. California air is different.
I never get used to entering the state. The air creeping in is gradual; the snow on the peaks of the Shasta range largely shrug away the air, as does the water of the long spattered lake below. It dribbles down lower elevations and flies across the flat land. In Redding it is suddenly there all at once; by Chico it is overwhelming. It's a color invisible to the naked eye which drifts across the land like clouds, nearly absent in some places, choking in others. It stains stone, stucco, and the hardier sorts of grass and shrub. In the rain and fog the visible clouds displace the invisible ones and the color fades to an innocent sere. In the sun and heat it chisels down and leaves cracks long into the night.
It's tempting to call the color sickly, even jaundiced, but to do so would be to gravely misinterpret the air. At the same time I struggle with what else to compare it to.
Cameras can't capture the air if they're too high-quality, they scalpel out everything into ROY G BIV. But the brume of Lynch's final trilogy of films wraps it around itself like a shawl; I've started reading The Crying of Lot 49 and there too it practically billows out of the pages.
When you pass the rolling hills, the brick walls with neat arpeggiating patterns, the onion domes of gas refineries, and you think of your uncle working there and then of your childhood, the maimed cactus behind your final house, the small, dark, solemn face of Mt. Diablo, and then you fly all at once onto the outstretched arm of San Francisco, with its nonsense billboards, a blandly attractive couple sitting crosslegged on the floor of a tastefully cluttered apartment, the ChatGPT logo hanging above and behind them like an apparition, and behind it saurian machinery with rust-wounded hides, their necks straining above the churning blue-grey bay dappled with tarnished sunlight, a bay always wider than you remember it, a bay that rolls on forever and ever into the air above the sea and below the sky.
















